State of Place

The Road Is Where You Are

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The sunniest place I’ve ever been

February 9th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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The desert salt flat and bright blue sky met far away at foot-level. Massive trains crept by on twelve sets of tracks, their red and black and white bodies sharp against the imposing sky.

Every picture snapped became the best picture I’d ever taken.

A crowd of backpackers milled about, complete with keffiyehs. Are you catching the train to New York with us? they asked.

I’m from New York, I said.

Scrapwood littered the ground, part of a set of tracks being pulled up. I stacked it on a wide woodpile. Time had warped two pieces beyond value. Placed one atop the pile and tossed the other aside.

Found an underground workshop and climbed inside, down the ladder. In the back, a man leaned his torso through a curtain and worked atop a shrouded workbench. Even after reaching my camera through the curtain and clicking the shutter, I couldn’t see what he was up to.

The trains rumbled overhead. Figured my camera must have dirt on the sensor.

Photo by Mallix via Flickr.

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How to decide how to get to Santiago

February 3rd, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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Camino de Santiago feet

Thinking about the millions of ways to exist on the Camino de Santiago. Again.

Read more in my post on Vagablogging this week.

Thanks for checking it out…

Ultreia!

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A vacation to the coal-fields — UPDATED

January 30th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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guide-book-nj-pa

Planning a summer tour while the Civil War is raging? We recommend a train ride through New Jersey to the coal-fields of Pennsylvania.

Advertisement from the back of Harper’s Magazine. August, 1864.

UPDATE:

Here’s a link to the full text copy from Google Books.

Journey to the Coal-fields in a larger map

More below: [Read more →]

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Tips for walking out of Machu Picchu

January 29th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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UPDATE: LivingInPeru.com, which knows this area way better than I do, DOES NOT recommend trying to walk out. Just sayin’. (Plus I guess the airlifts are almost over.)

Seriously — this is a repost of the instructions given by Cole Gainer to a friend on Facebook. Pass it on to anybody in there who might benefit:

If you decide to walk:

Leave early, bring water.

Walk down the rails until they disappear. Then just look left and follow the path up that’s been created. It goes by the hotel and is pretty easy to follow. (Look for my awesome Uruguay hat, I may have dropped it there.)

Take the low path and then head back on the rails. Some tricky parts come up where there are waves and stones to jump around but this bit is relatively easy and exciting.

Walk for about 20/30 minutes and then you will hit another area of washed out rail. WHEREVER THERE IS RAIL WITH NO GROUND UNDERNEATH – DO NOT CROSS IT!! Already made that mistake and it was no fun. By now the Peruvians should have established signs where to head into the jungle. We tried to leave stones and paper but they may be gone from new rains. Anyway, always look at least 100-200 feet before a washed out rail and you will see the path into the jungle that gets around it.

After this second crossing you walk for awhile with the regular astounding scenery and a couple land bridge crossings you need to run past one at a time so that they don’t slide beneath you. Who knows what differences there are now two days later but I’m sure the locals have found a new way around – and if they haven’t, then it’s your time to shine!

Keep walking, cross a rockslide on the rail, keep going. About 3 hours in you will get to a big long blue/white house. An old woman there will feed you all for a couple soles. At the end of her house the road is completely gone. Rest there then head into the jungle at the end of her house right before where the road drops off.

Follow the path, twist around some rock. Cross a creek, be wary of an angry dog, pass some houses, and get back on the rail. From here you can manage for awhile or at least make it up as you go. The first two jungle entrances I mentioned are the biggest pointers so far. Later, there are two more ones. One is marked by a log and some paper on it. If you tried to keep going you would cross rail with no land and just river underneath it. I did this. DON’T DO THIS! Go around in the jungle. Any time you think you can’t go any farther, just pull out the Boy Scout smarts and look for the path that I/we/someone has made around.

The last key jungle turn comes around marker 87. You’ll see sticks and rocks showing you where to head up into the cliffs. I made an arrow in the dirt but I bet it’s gone now. Go up in the cliffs and don’t come back down. Even when you see the rail somewhere around where marker 85-83 should be – don’t go to the rail. Another mistake I made. Stay on the high road, look at the mountains, pretend you’re on LOST, see how beautiful it is, pass the cemetery, keep going. Past the cemetery you’ll see ruins in the distance that people are working on, you can get on the rail there but then you go right back up through the ruins.

You start to see towns now but you need to avoid the rails even though you’ll see them. You’ll also start to die here. This is where my limp kicked in. Hopefully you’ll have rested much more than I did. For some reason I thought it was a race. When you hit the towns keep on the high roads – forget the rails, they are decieving and washed out every few hundred meters. If youre lucky you can maybe catch a ride into town now, the only problem is some of the town roads are flooded, but at least you’re out of the sticks.

You can do it, especially if you take it easy and don’t have that sinking feeling that your on your own and no one will know if you fall into the river and die. I’m sure the paths are well trodden now. The American embassy chick said they were expecting a few hundred people (mostly locals) to walk out in the following days. Unfortunately when I went she said there were less than 50 that had come out. The trail should be well blazed and it’s beautiful.

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A goodbye at the Bethlehem lookout

January 28th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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Climbed through the woods, up the steep face to the lookout. On the way up heard a parked car blaring the latest autotune, expected to find some homeboy and his girlfriend. Instead, a circle of people, lots of leather jackets, heads bowed, arms around each other. Big man in a suit saying a prayer in Spanish.

Crossed the road, made myself scarce, continued up the trail a ways, then stopped and looked down to the lookout. Just in time to see the big man in the suit dump an urn of tan ashes into the wind. The ashes didn’t plaster onto anyone’s face, just swarmed in the air through the crowd.

Nobody seemed to mind a final taste.

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ZOOMIN [guest post]

January 22nd, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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[Free rhyme inside]: [Read more →]

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The desperate motivations of senior travel

January 20th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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Here’s a link to my post today at Vagablogging, which takes a look at some of the more desperate, fundamental reasons senior citizens hit the road.

Less than 700 words and most of it’s quotes, but it took till four in the morning.

Bottom line: No matter your age, it’s not all sunshine and sailboats out there.

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Hondros on Haiti: The scale is unimaginable

January 19th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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“Dazed people walking the streets of Port au Prince keep saying the same thing: “Haiti is dead.” And on one level that’s true — this small country has just endured one of the most searing natural disasters in history, and death is everywhere.  Death is on sidewalks, on the roads, in rivers, buried in rubble and noticeable only by its smell.  The scale is so unimaginable that the usual human traditions and courtesies for the dead have been suspended: many thousands of bodies have been collected by backhoe and dumped into mass graves with no more ceremony than the rubble that goes into the same pits.

But admidst the carnage and chaos there have been remarkable glimmers of hope and strength, of heroism and selflessness. I’m sleeping in my truck in the parking lot of a hotel; outside the walls thousands of Haitians, with nowhere else to go, are camping out on the streets.  But as night descends the singing starts, jumping voices sounding through the darkness, spirituals and ancient songs sung from those streets late into the night. I listen to this from inside the truck as I drift to sleep; its jarring and achingly beautiful.”

Chris Hondros, via Foreign Policy.

Photo Chris Hondros/Getty Images

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Advice for procrastinating travelers

January 15th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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Fluid [--guest post--]

January 14th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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(Read it aloud): [Read more →]

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5 Ideas for Improving Matador’s Response to Haiti Quake – [UPDATED]

January 14th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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**Please consider donating to Direct Relief International (Charity Navigator report)**

[UPDATE 1/14/10  6:15 p.m.

David Miller, Senior Editor of Matador, commented earlier today, "We’ve now added prominent donation links at all relevant posts." Sweeeeet.

He also says, on behalf of Julie Schwietert, "1) Matador will not be taking volunteers to Haiti who are unqualified or unskilled as medical professionals and/or proven disaster relief. 2) We are working in direct concert with [Haitian] consul in NYC and established orgs to determine their needs and to WAIT for their direction before even considering making a move. We DO NOT want to contribute to chaos, be a burden, or get in way.” Double sweeeeet. THANKS GUYS.]

An Open Letter to the Matador Network re: Haiti, for any untrained people considering travel to Haiti.

Here are a few rushed thoughts on Matador’s response to the quake in Haiti:

1) Can you please include prominent donation links to qualified organizations in each of your Haiti updates? Today’s post on Matadortv.com has such a list, but besides the link to the Haitian Consulate, the four other Haiti posts do not. This will help involve people who are not considering travel to Haiti.

2) Urging people to collect goods, while well-intentioned, creates a less-than-efficient response. Such collection is not informed by on-the-ground needs. The goods are bought at retail in consumer packaging, without the purchasing power of an established aid organization. $10 of goods at retail vs. the same at wholesale is a big difference. Shipping costs for such goods are exorbitant in comparison to goods acquired centrally. A deluge of unsolicited goods takes staff away from more critical tasks (known in aid circles as “the second disaster”). Please see this link for more info: http://www.disasternews.net/news/article.php?articleid=2953

3) A plane of trained or semi-trained professionals would have a greater impact than a plane of well-intentioned but unskilled volunteers. I read about the lists you’re working on, so it seems you may be focusing your priorities on bringing qualified people from within the Matador Network to Haiti. I hope so. Every additional person who arrives puts a greater strain on the already limited food and water supplies. The plan to only take people with set volunteer placements is a great idea. Will you have a set packing list, ensuring that as many cubic feet of space as possible are dedicated to relief supplies? How will you communicate with the volunteers if they get placed around a variety of groups? Are you arranging transportation home, or even back to the Dominican Republic?

4) The cash value of an untrained person’s trip to Haiti would go much further if directed — right now — to an organization already on the ground. Consider the costs of transportation to the airport, consumption of only $10/day of food and supplies, the silent costs of personal prep materials (big boxes of Imodium, sunscreen, TP, a new hat). Add in the lost earnings of two plus weeks of work (from $400 to $2,000 and up). There’s a lot of money invested in each person’s trip, and helping to direct even a fraction of the sum to an efficient, trained group would have a bigger and more immediate impact.

5) In the November 2009 issue of American Psychologist, Dr. Michael Wessells (winner of the APA’s International Humanitarian Award) writes,

“Parachuting refers to the arrival of Western or outside ‘helpers’ who have ongoing relations with neither relief efforts or agencies nor the affected population. Parachuting creates a number of problems. For example, it uses scarce resources such as food and water that might better go to affected people or to seasoned humanitarian responders.

“…Parachuters cause harm in myriad other ways, such as by using culturally inappropriate methods; by violating security precautions;…by providing short-term support that raises expectations and leaves people feeling abandoned when the parachuters leave; and by failing to coordinate their work with related efforts.

“Parachuting is based on a misconception that outside psychologists [and other paraprofessionals] should assume a role of providing direct services. Such a role is inadvisable, especially in light of their general lack of knowledge of the culture, sociohistoric context, and current situation.” LINK

You have done so much already, but I have rushed this email to you because I have to voice my concern. You have a considerable reach within the travel community and I want to argue for the most efficient use of our collective resources as the situation in Haiti develops. You are doing way more than anyone I know, and sincerely, thank you.

Disclosure: I have no direct personal connections to nor interest in any aid groups. One friend retired from Doctors Without Borders, and I have friends of friends at Partners in Health. I have donated to Direct Relief International’s Haiti Earthquake fund.

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If you’re considering a trip to Haiti…

January 14th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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…and you’re not a trained disaster relief worker, please consider donating the money you would have put towards a trip to one of the following charities already working in Haiti:

Direct Relief International (Charity Navigator report)

Partners in Health (Charity Navigator report)

Doctors Without Borders (Charity Navigator report)

“After the initial rush to get to a disaster site or send material donations, there’s often a lingering need for long-term volunteers that goes unnoticed.”

Disclosure: I have no direct personal connections to nor interest in any aid groups. One friend retired from Doctors Without Borders, and I have friends of friends at Partners in Health.

I have donated to Direct Relief International’s Haiti Earthquake fund.

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Check out the Steamtown Ice Harvest Train

January 10th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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We move to be moved, but we can be moved without moving.

Here’s a bit of local flavor from around my way: The Ice Harvest Train running from Steamtown National Historic Site (Scranton, PA) and picking up big blocks of the cold stuff in Tobyhanna, PA.

This is how we (used to) do it…enjoy.

Milestone — 50th post! Huge thanks to YOU for riding along these first bumpy months. If you dig the site, how about subscribing via RSS? And if you’ve been quietly reading along, drop a comment!

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Being homeless helps you travel

January 7th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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Again, for the millionth time: The choices you make at home directly impact your travel options. We know this.

If you’re committed to the asylum of long-term travel, it helps to spend “at home” time in travel-conducive housing. In other words, to live with minimal anchors. 

The article Men Who Jump the Picket Fence in today’s New York Times touches on this connection, albeit briefly.

First,  in the case of Alan Berks, home ownership is an obstacle to connecting with a place. It gets in the way of spontaneous walks around town, restaurant drop-ins, nightlife, and so on. Foreign travel is portrayed as a bonus made possible by unloading a house (hey honey, we won six months in Honduras, sweet!) rather than a priority which should have precluded the purchase.

Second, in the case of Kirt Greenburg, business travel is seen as an agent provocateur, a gateway drug which leads perfectly good workers to dump almost-perfectly good real estate and start daydreaming about the south of France (there’s that bonus again).

But hey, it’s nice to see the Times giving a nod to the how-should-I-live questions that we put so much thought into.

There’s a lot more to dig into here, but for now I’ll restate the takeaway: From no-longer-on-the-corner cafes to seems-so-far countries, home ownership ties you down both locally and globally.

(Unless you just can’t let go and want to make things super-complicated and expensive. Then you can just take a 36-hour nap and outsource the whole mess to your Virtual Assistant in Dhaka.)

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The name’s Bond…Vagabond

January 6th, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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Here’s a link to my post over at Vagablogging today:

U.S. intelligence employs vagabonding ethic…and vagabonds?

Hope you can find a minute to check it out…thanks and Happy Wednesday.

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Independent Travel Stereotypes

January 2nd, 2010 by Brett Stuckel
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Here comes another year of word choices. You tell me: What’s cliché, what’s not?

(As much as I love my Lowe, I’d like to see 2010 be the Year of the Steamer Trunk.)

Created on wordle.net

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The fruits of falling behind

December 30th, 2009 by Brett Stuckel
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I’ve been falling behind lately, battling inertia like lots of other people.

I’m not going to describe the malaise — it’s the same as yours. Not going to submit any remedies or prescriptions for shutting it down.

However, one of Chris Guillebeau’s suggestions in that last link is to carry a notepad everywhere you go. Hm — I just snapped the picture above on my desk here in Bethlehem, PA. Wanted you to see the fruits of keeping a pad in your pocket, but not stopping to look in the rearview mirror.

Writing it down doesn’t cut it, you have to take the time to type it all in. Which I haven’t. Yet. But I like to think there might be a couple blog posts in there…

Doing something 80% of the way is more frustrating than doing nothing.

Here’s to a productive 2010!

Thoughts?

UPDATE: Check out Ben Casnocha’s recent post Keepers of Private Notebooks.

UPDATE 1/5: Notebooks almost all in. I’m happy with the word count. And here’s a link to skip straight to Joan Didion’s essay On Keeping a Notebook.

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Hide and seek with Laura Dekker

December 20th, 2009 by Brett Stuckel
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By running away, Laura Dekker proved she’s ready to sail around the world. It’s about time the Dutch courts get out of her way.

When most teenagers are grounded, their parents tell them to stay in the house. Not so for 14 year-old Laura Dekker–when she proposed an attempt to become the youngest sailor to circle the globe solo, her government ordered her to stay in the Netherlands.

Just to be sure, they placed Laura under state supervision through (at least) next July. Maybe the government thought they’d settled things. But imagine if your government ordered you not to travel. Life would get itchy, fast.

According to her dad, the scrutiny led to a “negative spiral.” The sailor sank until last Friday, when she grabbed $5,000 cash and disappeared.

Not that there wasn’t warning: In response to being stifled, Laura said she’d try to capitalize on her dual citizenship with New Zealand and attempt the record from there. However, it’s unclear whether she fled with hopes of launching her journey, or if she just flipped out and bounced.

Unfortunately for Laura, she’s not very good at hiding. Mere hours after an international alert announcing her disappearance, she surfaced in St. Maarten. She’d crossed an ocean, but still was easy to find.

That alone should be enough to persuade the Dutch government to let her sail.

Link

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Snow falls in Bethlehem, PA

December 20th, 2009 by Brett Stuckel
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Dry, miniature snowflakes fell on Bethlehem yesterday, leaving the city sparkling. Residents raised hoods, locked arms, tucked chins, and squinted eyelids against the flying snow.

Throughout the storm, pizza delivery drivers trafficked their cargo with little regard for personal safety. Around 7 p.m., a teal Neon with a silver spoiler, Dominoes sign, and supreme confidence barreled downhill on Broad St., sending crosswalk walkers leaping for the safety of the curb.

Taqueria Mexico Lindo on Main St. remained open for business, but at the peak dinner hour only one sleepy couple sat huddled over the baseboard heater, entranced by Lady Gaga on the flatscreen. The waitress devoted long stretches of attention to her laptop with impunity.

A duo of ATV’s raced through Bethlehem’s alleyways, even passing a police car which declined to intervene.

Someone, somewhere, slipped and cracked a tailbone.

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Dark news from the Lehigh Valley

December 17th, 2009 by Brett Stuckel
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Forget steel. American Weirdness is booming in the Lehigh Valley.

Today’s headline: Teacher dead from heroin overdose on a school night. A beautiful 24 year-old biology teacher, blond. At a high school 28 miles south on the previous day, the same drug lulled a girl to sleep in class.

Bowhunters recently found a decomposed body in the woods near our new casino.

Last Saturday night, someone leapt out of an Infiniti and stabbed a pizza guy in the butt with a pen knife. Thieves are raiding boarding houses, slipping through unlocked front doors and systematically robbing residents at gunpoint.

All the while, Bethlehem is up in arms over an unprecedented hot dog cart, and is four City Council votes away from gifting the town’s historic societies the right to deny any and all vendor applications (and in the process, banning book vendors–sorry, only food, drinks or flowers permitted).

A 65 year-old man in Allentown who bragged about the size of his bank withdrawal ended up smashed to death with a brick. (His former roommate is suspected.) This is what comes to mind as I awake from a nap, without having done any particular research.

We’re America. Recently Obama even dropped by to pick up some anecdotes for a pep talk to the nation.

Photo by Marty.fm.

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